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And double check most of the 12X36 can be wired to run on power. Help narrow the lis Post by BadDog » Thu Apr 10, pm Jawn wrote: Is it just because of the power cross feed and limited quick-change ability? Jawn wrote: Yeah, these are things I've thought about.

The 12x36 has a fair amount of "win" in this situation Enco says it needs a 70x30 floor space. I have a 2-car garage, but I'd like to keep it that way instead of making it into a 1. What all needs access on a machine like this? Obviously the gear case on the headstock Probably too rich for my blood. As to your 17x60, I think it's safe to say it'd be severe overkill for me.

I've seen good used ones for the price of a Horror Freight 7x I should never have let that one get away. Of course, where you live makes all the difference; in some areas machine tools are a dime a dozen and in other areas they are like hen's teeth. Once you get your feet wet, you can decide what you'd like to move up to.

If you buy a used one, it's like buying a car - a used one loses less in value when you drive it off the lot than a new one, so when it comes time to trade up, you will lose less on the sale of yours. The seller even offered to transport it some distance. That gap bed Clausing Colchester gearhead had the tee slots in the saddle and L0 chucks, collet closer Help narrow the lis Post by BadDog » Fri Apr 11, am Yeah, a nice mid-size lathe Rockwell 11, Logan 12, Sheldon, etc with L00, all the basic functional features, and with spindle bore large enough for a 5C tube is hard to beat in a home shop.

Problem is finding one the good serviceable or reasonable rebuildable condition. And to make matters worse, not knowing what to look, what's missing, what's broken, and what's too worn, all makes buying used that more risky for new guys depending on background and willingness to self educate up front can be mitigated somewhat.

That would certainly be my preferred path, and what I did, but it's not for everyone. Too bad you're not up north as I have a good "starter" machine. Older, accurate, dedicated tooling that goes with it to get you started, and, most importantly, good serviceability while you find out what you do and don't need. Fortunately, its not all bleak. Recent last yrs machine developments, especially digital controllers, have made high quality machines operationally obsolete way before they have reached the limit of their working life.

Also, trade schools, like our local BOCES facility, have lathes hanging around classrooms that really don't represent what the student will find in the workplace. Consequently, they end up in auctions, many of which are sealed bid and lightly advertised. I still lament not having the chance to bid on the welding shop's Linde oxy-acetylend pantograph. Keep an eye on the legal notices in the local paper, as school districts advertise there.

What this means on a practical level, is that you can get a really first class machine, often for less than an import. Often way less, and often with a box full of tooling. Personally, I'd stay away from the smaller machines and the 3 in 1 types. It's not that they are inherently inferior, it just that you can reach their practical limitation in a disturbingly short time and you take the depreciation beating.

As Glenn stated in his recent thread on motor problems, quality is it's own reward. Its hard to envision trumpeting your score on an import machine 45 years from now like one would on a Walker-Turner or Delta.

Know what I mean? Be patient, check the forum's exchange, and good hunting. Just be aware, this is addictive. Bill Walck. If it doesn't specifically state "Made in Taiwan", you will be getting a Chinese lathe which is a much more inferior machine. I personally would look for an older "made in America" lathe, but they are hard to find in good condition; lathes like South Bend, Clausing, Sheldon, Atlas.

A lathe in the 9" to 12" range is best. Too large a machine means accessories and tooling is much more expensive. If you look for a used lathe, try to take along with you, someone who is knowledgeable about machine tools. At a minimum, you should consider a lathe with a quick change gearbox, power cross feed, taper attachment, factory fitted, if you plan to turn tapers , 3 and 4 jaw chucks.

Most lathes in that range are usually volt. Even if it is volt, the motor may be dual voltage, so you can rewire it for I noted you are interested in getting into building large scale trains. The largest single item you would turn on the lathe would be the locomotive drivers and depending on the type of engine you would build, a driver can range from 6" to over 12" in diameter.