If the manufacturer recommends acclimation, ensure that the humidity and temperature conditions are identical to those that will be experienced during occupation. Cross-stack the wood with 1-inch spaces between the boards to allow for air circulation on all sides. Some tropical exotic hardwood varieties may require longer acclimation periods. Once the hardwood flooring has been installed, allow an additional days for acclimation prior to finishing.

The basement and crawl spaces should be dry and complete prior to the hardwood flooring installation. Crawl spaces should have a minimum of 18 inches from the ground to the subflooring joists. The crawlspace earth or concrete slab should be covered with a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from reaching subflooring. Crawl spaces should be adequately ventilated with 1. Ensure that the subfloor is flat, clean, dry and that there is no movement in the subflooring system. Hardwood flooring will not stabilize the OSB subfloor , so all movement must be remedied prior to hardwood installation.

Moisture contents of OSB subflooring must be established prior to hardwood flooring installations. Take at least 20 moisture readings per 1, square feet of subflooring.

Guess what? They floors cupped this summer in the humidity. Not horrible but certainly enough to notice. This winter, they will shrink back to normal. The unevenness that the expansion and contraction leaves fits into the character of the cabin but it's certainly not something I'd want in my regular home day in and day out.

By the way, the link in post 2 is just a checklist - it doesn't give any instructions on how to do anything. Is there a link to the nwfa install guidelines, crawl space, vapor barrier. Every installer round here seems to use Rosin paper. That's why I'm asking, you cannot glue to. Your installer should be well familiar with ALL of this. They use rosin paper in my area, too, if it's not a glue down.

However, using glue negates having to use rosin paper and is MUCH more helpful at keeping floors from cupping, warping, and squeaking. I'm going to ask a simple question: How much will it cost you to redo the floors in years time? An unsealed, unconctrolled crawlspace is against NWFA requirements. It voids your wood flooring warranty and it will void the adhesive warranty. I know the cost is bigger than you want, but it will cost more to redo 'soaked' wood floors.

By the time you catch the soaking wet wood, you will need new subflooring as well. You can skip it today, but it is only a matter of time before the floor fails. A wide plank product is going to cup very quickly It just takes more time. By the time it shows up, the subfloor will be soaked and will need replacing.

By skipping this today, you are at very high risk of having to pay quadruple the costs later on. If it were me, I would throw down a vapour retarder plastic sheeting with holes in it and a floating laminate floor with a nice underlay cork is my favourite and WAIT until I can afford to encapsulate the crawlspace before purchasing wide plank hardwood. It is your choice. But this is not going to be covered by anyone's warranty The conditions are completely wrong for hardwood install.

I installed over sf of solid strand bamboo in my new home 7 years ago. With 3 dogs constantly running in the house. Not one issue. That is unheard of with typical hardwood. The floors look as though i just installed. Plus we live on a small farm so between the dogs and ourselves you cannot help but bring in dirt.

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Send a Houzz Gift Card! Building a Home Flooring. Is glue needed for hardwood floor on OSB? Email Save Comment Featured Answer. Like 5 Save. Sort by: Oldest. Newest Oldest. JuneKnow last year. Like 2 Save. BT last year. Like Save. Related Discussions Need help. Have a lab check for asbestos before you go any further. Need help with stairs and OSB landing Q.

You would then prime the surface and working with high-end flooring paint, you would then go ahead and paint out everything. At the end of the day, you will probably spend about the same amount of money on new plywood, primer, paint and trim as you would for new carpet on the stairs. And painted stairs are LOUD!!!! I would give it years before you cover it up with carpet because of the amount of noise that comes from this area Thank you, Rogue.

I really do want to have the work done and not void any warranty, but I have asked several suppliers about installing their products over OSB. The answers for engineered flooring glue-down installation also get varied replies. I wanted to be sure before I spent money on the project. Some of the manufacturers' installation instructions are confusing to me on the subject of installing over OSB and I wanted to get a better idea of how to phrase a question to get more clarification.

OSB the cheap stuff OSB shrinks. And it shrinks no matter what. Which is why NWFA doesn't like to see it as a top layer. Advantech is a different beast and is often considered better than plywood. And it can be more expensive than regular subfloor grade ply.

Which is why it is rare to see in my neck of the woods. In Canada, we see OSB all over the place. It is cheap and easy to find. And that savings goes straight into the pockets of the builders.

That means a glue down hardwood needs another layer. A glue down vinyl needs another layer. Tile needs another layer Pretty much carpet and a floating floor can go over OSB It is pretty tough to work.

You can't sand it And Canadian homeowners do NOT like that extra surprise to add another layer of subfloor when they pull out their carpets to lay hardwood. I'm not a fan You might want to look into what is considered acceptable in your area as a subfloor.

The Tile and Flooring transition is perfect so I didn't use flooring transitions from Bamboo to Tile because it looks ugly. As I was ripping out the kitchen floors, the previous contractor used OSB as the subfloor for part of the Kitchen and I was able to rip that out with my bare hands due to the water damage done to it.

OSB loses a lot of its structural integrity when it is in contact with water I keep hearing sub flooring under the OSB. We have OSB looking at me when I tore up the carpet and padding. When I look at my floor from the basement it is deffinetly OSB. The OSB is the Only floor under the carpet. I would also suggest using glue along the edges and the first couple of rows and the last few rows against the walls. I didn't and I notice it a little bit, but I don't really care that much since I did all the work myself.

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Sort by: Oldest. Newest Oldest. See 1 more comment. Like Save. I'm replacing the floors in my new house too and recently got a bunch of samples of hardwood, engineered wood, and laminate. We decided to put them through a scratch and dent test to see which would hold up the best. We thought that the hardwood would come out on top. Well, let me tell you, the hardwood and engineered wood failed every test. From dropping a plate on it to trying to scratch it with our nails to any other test -- we got those hardwood blocks looking like crap in about 5 minutes.

The laminate, however, looked just as nice as the hardwood to begin with, and is completely unscathed after all our abusive tests. If you have children, pets, or guests, your hardwood is going to look awful within the space of about 5 years. The hardwood in the house we're renting now is less than 4 years old.

The floors are in hideous condition even with light use and already need re-doing. Believe me, the notion of hardwood floors is wonderful. But why buy something that's more expensive, is more delicate, and needs frequent refinishing? The laminate looks just as nice it's not like that awful stuff you used to get in the 80s at all , and you could drop a bomb on it without scratching it. I agree with most of the opinions here already, especially from the professionals. Most likely you can sand and refinish existing floors, especially if they are from the 60's.

We've refinished many floors from the s and even some from the 's. Sanding is by far your most economic option. But do it right if you replace it. And, make sure subfloor is in good condition and level. But, usually when my customers hear the difference in price, they will opt to refinish, unless they have a very big budget.

You may find this article helpful: Should I refinish or replace my hardwood floors? I think this depends on how large the pegged area is.

From the picture, it looks like red oak but have someone local look at it in person to confirm. The pegged look and strong bevels are rather dated and most of my customers don't like this look and bevels are hard to keep clean.

If it's a small area, I would rip it up and replace it; if it's large, have the flooring company do an estimate both ways. Usually if my customers can afford it, they'll rip it up and replace it. If they are limited on budget, they'll refinish it You can read about red oak vs white oak in this article. New hardwood floor popping all over Q. Ohhhh this is getting interesting. Could be OSB An inspection is really, really, really needed.

He did use a professional hardwood flooring installer, didn't he? For that nice big fat chunk of change that a pro hardwood installer charges? Didn't he? Probably not. What others have said about preparing the surface is good advice. Like 1 Save. You'll have a nice, even and clean surface to install onto, well worth the effort, IMO.

Valerie Noronha 15 years ago. I'm crossing my fingers that's what I have for my year old subfloors. I'm going to bump this old thread back up Does Advantech subfloor take nails better than OSB? The right product for the right application. Boxers is completely correct. Check the grade! OSB is big flakes and strands, of wood going all different directions. Particle board, looks like saw dust glued together, thus particle in the name.

Better give us your floor joist on-center measurements too while you are at it.